0029 – Secrets of Srisailam

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Reflections: Devotion and Discovery

On our recent journey to Srisailam, I set off with anticipation, knowing it would be both a spiritual and personal adventure. On the way, we stopped at a Tripurantakam temple nestled far off from the Mallikarjuna Srisailam temple. There was a mysterious underground passage leading from it, though unfortunately, it was sealed off, leaving behind only the intrigue of what might have once been an ancient pilgrimage path. The antiquity of the place filled the air, though the cave remained a secret we couldn’t uncover.

Arrival: The Dam and a Museum Visit

Upon arriving in Srisailam later that evening, our first stop was the dam, located at the border between Telangana and Andhra Pradesh. The sheer size of the structure was awe-inspiring, with rows of gates standing ready. None were open during our visit, but we were told three gates would open the next day. The idea of seeing the sunset over the cascading water would have been magnificent. As we later discovered, however, the gates opened after we had already left.

After visiting the dam, we headed to the Chatrapathi Sivaji Museum. Despite it being closing time and pouring rain outside, the museum was a visual feast. The lifelike artwork, paired with an immersive presentation, plunged me into historical narratives. My suggestion? Adding a background score to the experience could elevate the exhibit to a cinematic quality and bring the experience to life.

Day Two: The Cable Car, Holy Water, and Jyotish

The next morning, we took a cable car down toward the sacred Krishna river. The ride itself was a bit rickety, but it served its purpose, and the views from the top were beautiful, surrounded by hills on all sides.

Once we reached the bottom, we boarded a boat for a peaceful ride across the river. It was a fairly long ride, taking us close to the dam, with the gentle wind adding to the tranquility of the moment. There’s something about being in the middle of it all — surrounded by hills, feeling both small and connected to nature in a unique way. It’s the kind of experience that makes you pause and take in the stillness around you.

After the boat ride, we bathed in the holy water. It’s always fascinating to me how holy water is treated — both as a sacred medium for blessings but also for irresponsible and unhygienic practices.

Before heading back up the hill, I decided to try a brief parrot fortune-telling session. Of course, this wasn’t the traditional jyotisham (astronomy) found in Sanatana Dharma, but rather a fortune-telling experience where a parrot picks a card from a deck, and your future is interpreted from it. In hindsight, I probably shouldn’t call it jyotisham at all. It felt surreal that this could be someone’s job — almost like a human version of an auto-generated text service. Not to sound rude, but it was more of a lighthearted distraction than anything else.

The Lingam and the Temple Experience

After returning to our room to freshen up, we visited the main temple in Srisailam. As we entered, the experience was… well, a little underwhelming.

Kneeling before the temple’s central lingam, my head barely touched the stone before I was whisked away by the queue system. It’s a strange sensation — to be in a place meant for reflection and prayer, only to be rushed through it. The act of worship almost felt mechanical, leaving little time to process the significance of the moment.

While the interaction with the lingam was brief, the path leading up to it was intriguing. The temple’s stone carvings caught my eye, each etched with stories I tried to unravel. The symbolism, the detailed craftsmanship, and the history embedded in the walls were mesmerising. I found myself wondering about the significance of the lingam’s shape. I asked some of the priests, but their answers were vague, leaving me to develop my own interpretations. Functionally, the shape works perfectly for abhishekam (the ritual pouring of water or milk), allowing the liquid to flow smoothly in all directions. But surely there’s more to it? I haven’t come to any conclusions yet, but the journey of discovering its deeper meaning has only just begun.

Missing the Dam Gates

After our time at the temple, we headed home, content with all the experiences we’d had. But not long after we left, I received word that the dam gates had opened. I could only imagine how incredible it would’ve been to see the sunset over the open gates, with water gushing out in all its glory. It’s one of those moments you feel you’ve missed, but also a reason to return.

The Journey Continues

My trip to Srisailam was a blend of awe, curiosity, and a few missed opportunities. Each part of the journey felt like a lesson — not just about the place itself, but about how we interact with the spiritual and the everyday. I’m left with more questions than answers, but perhaps that’s the point — to keep searching, to keep wondering, and to let the experiences unfold as they may.

As I reflect on this visit, I think of the contrasts I encountered: the mundane alongside the sacred, the serene boat ride before a rushed temple visit, and the stories carved in stone that invite interpretation. In many ways, Srisailam feels like a place that keeps its secrets, and that’s exactly what makes me more curious to uncover them.

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